I've no first-hand experience with this bug (Must be too cold in my region). But generally speaking, a beetle is a beetle. The same vulnerabilities are universal.
First line of defense is hand picking any you see. It's 5-10 minutes a day as you work in the garden just picking the bugs off. It seems tedious, but you can get a lot of them very quickly this way. The constant pressure on the population will keep the damage to a minimum.
Next, desiccation of larva. Water at the root zone, no foliar spraying for a few weeks.
Dusting with Diatomaceous earth will create an abrasive surface which will kill a lot of them, both larva and adults. It needs to be applied lightly, but repeatedly, every day for a couple of weeks. Don't cover the plants completely, just a light dusting, repeated often.
A mild soap spray will kill most of them. Use a strong liquid soap, but dilute heavily in water. 1 Teaspoon per liter is sufficient. Spray once every 10 days during periods of high pest activity.
Keep a journal, noting when you first see the bug (date, approximate temperature, what you spotted them on, is it rain or shine etc). This helps you determine when they are likely to return the following year so you can get a jump on them.
If you can preempt their emergence, on certain crops you can use a foliar antitranspirant spray. It's basically a liquid wax for the leaves that helps preserve moisture. It also blocks a lot of the plant chemical signals which attract the insects in the first place. I wouldn't use it on leaf crops like lettuce or cabbage, but it's fine for things like peppers.
A mild application of wintergreen oil around the bed can help.
Plants high in silica can withstand attacks much better. Even in pure sand however, there's usually very little bioavailable silica for the plant. You need to conscript a few plants which excel in extracting it, and use them to refine it in more available forms. Horsetail and wood nettle are excellent for this. Grow them in sandy loam soil with a high pH. Harvest the plants before they set seed, and make a compost tea from them to foliar-feed the plants you want to protect. It's a plant immune booster basically.
Prune damaged leaves and stems immediately to reduce the surface area of the wound.
Bacillus sprays derived from raw vinegar mother, in a monosaccharide solution (boiled sugar or molasses which has been allowed to cool and diluted 40:1 in water) will help break down damaged plant materials much faster, without harming the healthy parts. A reduction of stressed tissue has been show to decrease the attractiveness of the plants to pests.
Many beetles complete their life cycle in the ground. A layer of cardboard and some thick mulch around the plants can prevent them from entering the soil beneath and seriously reduce the population next season. Likewise, crop rotation will prevent any larvae in the soil from having another plant of the same type in it's vicinity when it emerges the following season.
Interplanting different species will help confuse the pests. The colorado potato beetle for instance can't find potatoes and related species amongst dill, fennel and onion very easily. Rather than uniform rows of a single crop, mix everything up a bit.
Neem oil is very effective at preventing an infestation if applied in the days preceding the first pest's emergence. Again, this is why you want to keep a journal.
Traps are also very useful. The sticky traps used in orchards seem to work on most garden pests. A light at night over a bowl of water attracts many insects.
Keep the plants healthy with a full soil test once every 3-5 years, and make sure there are no deficiencies. A healthy plant isn't likely to become infested, but a struggling plant will be crawling with pests very quickly. Most beetle problems come from high starch levels in the plant paired with a low root quality. This makes bulb and tuber crops susceptible. Potatoes, Lilies, Turnips, Rutabagas, etc. Also plants which were pot-bound, suffer from club-root, or were over fertilized with nitrogen.
Predator Animals can do a lot to safeguard crops. Nearly everywhere in the US, you can find indigenous snakes, toads, frogs, swallows, bats, lizards, salamanders, and for aquatic crops, fish. Swallows, you either have them or you don't. Likewise the lizards may be few in number in cool areas, and won't stay put (unless you're in a warm climate). Everything else you can introduce to the garden or easily attract.
Predatory insects can be purchased or attracted with consideration to habitat. Keep in mind, some of the methods which kill the pests will also kill the predators. However, you can buy a 5lb bag of ladybugs pretty cheaply for aphid control (and that's a shit-ton of ladybugs). Mantis eggs can be purchased cheaply. Parasitic wasps can be introduced, though the purchased species are never very helpful, a native predator of that pest is better.
Then you have parasitic organisms. Nematodes, bacteria, worms, even beetle fleas.
So far, this is all organic, food-safe and pretty damn effective (though you should take multiple approaches, or all of them for maximum benefit, no one method will be completely effective).
Getting into perennial trees and shrubs however, I'm not personally against the use of commercial pesticides. My rule is, never within 10 days of bloom (so as not to affect bees and other pollinators), and never after fruit is set. I use in the beginning of the season before bud-break and again in fall after harvest. Nothing which is sprayed is considered food, and I steer clear of insecticides which work within the plant biology. Only stuff which works on the surface.
