Shot my first 200 reloads

[hackmeister]

Shot the first 200 .45 ACP reloads from my Dillon press today through my 1911. Everything ran without issue. I noticed some sparking on a few rounds but that sometimes happens with lead bullets.

[never_retreat]

Thats good, but I hope you did not make 200 without testing a few first.
If I'm working up a load I will usually do about 10. Then 10 each more with a lower or higher charges.
So If I'm doing something with 4 grains of powder I will also do 3.9, 3.8, 3.7. And test them all.

[archer]

congrats!

[Mortblanc]

What is "sparking"

I have never heard the term and can not find it in any of my references.

[SnoHam13]

What is "sparking"

I have never heard the term and can not find it in any of my references.

some times target loads [low pressure] will have sparks come out the end of the barrel
[burning powder] cast lead does this some times due to low pressure

congrats on the first 200

SnoHam13

[hackmeister]

You also sometimes see sparking with black powder rifles or pistols. I'm going to be doing some 9mm and more .45 ACP loads in the next couple of weeks.
My load data for my first loads:
230 gr lead round bullets
6 gr IMR SR4756
Winchester Lg pistol primers

[Mortblanc]

Ahhh, a new term to be used instead of unburned powder flash.

And an indication that you have exceeded the burn limits of barrel length and need to cut back slightly on the powder charge.

[Smurf Hunter]

Ahhh, a new term to be used instead of unburned powder flash.

And an indication that you have exceeded the burn limits of barrel length and need to cut back slightly on the powder charge.

My hand cast .38spl from a snub nose will do that unless I use a faster powder like TiteGroup or TrailBoss.
I almost want to buy a chrony to see how a 2" barrel will compare to a 6" on my full magnum loads.

[SnoHam13]

just a little more ''taper crimp'' will fix this too [harder bullet pull]
bumps the pressure up just a bit

SnoHam13

[hackmeister]

Did another 350 rounds this weekend. I would of did more but it was a nice day and I decided to take my boys to the park for a couple hours. I found two cartridges (Blazer) that I must of picked up the last time at the range that had small primer pockets. All my other .45 ACP is large primer. I set them aside to do before switching over to do 9mm. Any other brands that also have small primers I should be mindful of?

[SnoHam13]

blazer are ''throw away'' cases don't reload them
45 ACP also comes in small primer too [ill have to dig them up to see the brand]
so check your brass before you run them threw your press so bad things don't happen

SnoHam13

[Mortblanc]

Some of the Federal from Walmart has small primers.

You also have to watch out for .45 GAP cases.  They are shorter than standard and have small primer pockets.

[NWPilgrim]

blazer are ''throw away'' cases don't reload them
45 ACP also comes in small primer too [ill have to dig them up to see the brand]
so check your brass before you run them threw your press so bad things don't happen

SnoHam13

Not all Blazer is throw away, only the aluminum cases.  Blazer also sells brass cased ammo which is perfectly fine for reloading.  I've reloaded thousand of rounds of .45ACp and have not yet come across a small pocket primer headstamp.  They do exist but do not seem to be very common, at least around my parts.

[hackmeister]

Not all Blazer is throw away, only the aluminum cases.  Blazer also sells brass cased ammo which is perfectly fine for reloading.

This. I've shot their cheap aluminum stuff before. I know not to reload it as well as that steel case stuff. The two I found were brass.

[SnoHam13]

I did not know blazer made brass cases,only seen the aluminum throw a ways
haven't purchased any factory ammo in 20 years

picked up 500 Pc. of 45 in a trade all small primer pockets [lost some were in Da Man Cave] haven't done any thing with them yet

SnoHam13

[armymars]

 Most 45 brass with small pistol primer pockets came from match ammo.

[Bradbn4]

Also small primer holes are for lead free ammo setup that is used in California.  You can reload them; however, for now I am just setting those style cases aside.

[hackmeister]

3 out of 3000 of my .45 ACP brass has small primers. Not a big deal. I marked them with a red sharpie. I set them aside and prime them when I'm switching from 9mm to .45 ACP on my press. Another issue I found is some military surplus brass having crimped primer pockets. A lot of .223 and some 9mm have this. It requires a swagger tool like this to remove it:

[Smurf Hunter]

3 out of 3000 of my .45 ACP brass has small primers. Not a big deal. I marked them with a red sharpie. I set them aside and prime them when I'm switching from 9mm to .45 ACP on my press. Another issue I found is some military surplus brass having crimped primer pockets. A lot of .223 and some 9mm have this. It requires a swagger tool like this to remove it:

I usually give a quick grind with a dremel bit.  I suppose unless the primers fall out there's not really an issue.

I bet a purpose based tool would save some time though...

[reefmarker]

I also just use a primer pocket reamer to get out military crimps in 5.56.  It is a little bit of work, but not too much.  Plus, the reamer is under $10!

I also use reloading as a means to rid myself of stress so the longer it takes the better.   

[TiredOldGrunt]

I only shoot plated, HSM Zero or Berrys.  I like it that way.  Sure lead is cheaper, but its a bit more headache too...

TOG

[armymars]

  Have you tried the new coated bullets. You will want to bell the case like lead so you don't rip the coating.

[hackmeister]

I just prepped 1500 cases of 5.556/.223. The swagger came in very handy. Maybe 60% of the brass I had had the crimped primer pockets.

[Carl]

Your load "My load data for my first loads:230 gr lead round bullets 6 gr  Winchester Lg pistol primers
is well below the 7.1 grain or so suggested and has sparkle due to low pressure and incomplete combustion.
This is not a sign of problems. I use HP 38 or WW231  at 5.1 grains behind any 200 to 230 grain bullet....
with hundreds of thousands of rounds fired at the indoor range I worked at.

Your choice of powder is fine ,though may be more consistent at 6.4 to 6.5 grains (with about 7.1 as maximum suggested)

[hackmeister]

Your choice of powder is fine ,though may be more consistent at 6.4 to 6.5 grains (with about 7.1 as maximum suggested)

Dully noted. I did follow the Lyman recipe for that powder/bullet/primer combination.

[armymars]

 In my Spanish 45ACP I'm using 5 gr of Universal and a 200 gr round nose bullet from Better Bullets.
I'm having no problems with the powder charge with my 12 lb. spring. One thing you do want to keep an eye on is the cases.
I have some that were fired from a gun that did not fully support the head of the case when fired.
This causes a small bulge just in front of the head. The only thing you can do is use a Lee bulge remover
with their taper crimp die. Even then I loose about 20% of the cases. The good news is I only had about
100 cases or so and they were all the same head stamp. The ammo was not a common brand so sorting is easy .
The Wilson cartage gauge helps a lot. Just re-size then use the go no-go gauge. 

[Mortblanc]

One of the things that one gets into when reloading for a specific gun is that the load specific to that gun may not operate in another gun of the same caliber. 

That is especially true when working with light charges in semiauto pistols. 

I have found that I must go to the high side of the data chart and load near max so that all of my pistols will function reliably with my reloads, especially in 9mm. 

Many of the 9mm pistols on the market today are calibrated for the NATO round, which is far stronger than the US factory load version of that same round.  As a result all of my cast bullet 9mm loads are near max, but not over.  (that and if I am shooting a 9 I want a max load!)

I have found the same to be true of 45acp.  If I load a good stout charge, just under max, the rounds will work in any pistol I own.

Even if you only own one gun you need to load to at least the factory specs and not below.  You may decide to trade guns and then will get stuck with several hundred rounds that will not reliably function your pistol.       

[Smurf Hunter]

One of the things that one gets into when reloading for a specific gun is that the load specific to that gun may not operate in another gun of the same caliber. 

That is especially true when working with light charges in semiauto pistols. 

I have found that I must go to the high side of the data chart and load near max so that all of my pistols will function reliably with my reloads, especially in 9mm. 

Many of the 9mm pistols on the market today are calibrated for the NATO round, which is far stronger than the US factory load version of that same round.  As a result all of my cast bullet 9mm loads are near max, but not over.  (that and if I am shooting a 9 I want a max load!)

I have found the same to be true of 45acp.  If I load a good stout charge, just under max, the rounds will work in any pistol I own.

Even if you only own one gun you need to load to at least the factory specs and not below.  You may decide to trade guns and then will get stuck with several hundred rounds that will not reliably function your pistol.     

sage advice, and perhaps another reason hand loading for a wheel gun is a good place for the novice to start.  With .38 special, I just need enough charge to not squib the barrel

[armymars]

 I did that once on my 44 Magnum. Only once.......

[Carl]

A squib can be tough...but 7 rounds behind a squib can be a real challenge.
The owner actually reloaded and tried a few more rounds after his reload squibed.



First you drill carefully into the mass of metal...without touching the gun metal:



Then you can use a brass punch to clear the rest of the obstruction.



One very nice S&W model 14 saved



The last foto should get some hearts beating...the real deal...1921 Colt



Yes ,that is one ugly carpet.