Armory, Self Defense, And EDC > Modern Rifles, Shotguns and Carbines

AR-15 DIY Build Thread

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--- Quote from: millerized1 on October 26, 2008, 06:37:26 PM ---Lower Parts Kits (LPK's) are usually, like lowers, manufactured by few, and sold by many.  I've purchased 14 sets from different manufacturers over the years and none seem to be THAT different from the others.  Some are a bit smoother, some finishes are darker or lighter, but nothing that didn't work.  I polish/file/tinker with them all anyway, so it's just a piece of steel to me.  Buy what fits your budget, and if push comes to shove, you'll have spares for later when you have to buy more....lowers....uppers....LPKs....ammo.  For parts, if something breaks: one is none and 2 is one.

I'm guessing it has to do with the amount of gas coming back to drive the bolt carrier, and how much spring and buffer it'll be pushing against. I think my carbine springs are a bit more stout than my regular springs.  I know the buffers are smaller for the carbine than the regular.

If you're really needing an answer RIGHT NOW, head on over to and spend a few hours.  If you're impatient or don't want to read all the stuff, just ask.  I guarantee that before you sign off for the evening, you'll have 23 replies, with at least one actually knowing what they're talking about.  Or just give Mark (LaRue) a shout.  He posts and answers quite a few questions on there.

Of course, your mileage might vary.....

--- End quote ---

I do not really like It is so expansive that I get lost in it all. I had already read their dummies guide and copied the important parts. I know Mark LaRue pays attention to his customers. I will keep that in mind when I reach that point. I know I am going the CTR route, but as I am not working on a upper yet the question is more curiosity at the moment.

I had an idea that the small parts are pretty much put out by the same contractors. One question I (as I did with the small parts) have as it would be a more pressing issue for building is on triggers. I see competition sets all the time, but are they rugged? I only ask because I do not want my rifle build to be particularly a match rifle. I am thinking real nice workhorse.

If you are curious am I thinking of using a LaRue stripped upper receiver. It is one of the few I have seen for sale, but lacks M4 feed ramps. I do not understand that either.

I am not going the Bushmaster route. I already own a Bushmaster and it has yet to fail me, but I think there are better rifles. The rifle I build I want to be better then the rifle I own.

Stick with a quality LPK.  I like Stag/CMT.  I have had a bit if an issue with a build using whatever LPK that Model 1 sends.  No issue with their upper though.  I too did not want anything that would not be reliable, I do not know much aboout the 2-stage triggers, so I stayed with a standard trigger.  As an added bonus they are also at least $100 cheaper, and in my opinion mine shoots just fine. ;D

Well, match or competition triggers are just that, for matchs or competitions.  If you're looking for a workhorse, stick with regular.  That way if something goes wrong, you put regular/cheap back in without the cost.  I've got a trigger fixture for filing triggers and sears.  Once finances pick up next month, I'll pick up a few extras, get them ready for shipping, and start accepting a "yours for mine" arrangement. I had my first triggers done by a guy in CO.  With shipping, I was paying about $75 for him to do the work.  Last 8 I did myself with a $169 fixture. Doesn't take long to figure the savings.

M4 feedramps are for the longer bullets.  Regular stuff 55-62gr slides into the chamber just fine.  The longer bullets, or the possibility of a dirty dusty chamber, bullets or mag might prevent them from sliding right in.  A little cut into the barrel and lower, and they slide right in here too.  For what it's worth, I have 3 out of the 10 with them.  I don't notice the difference.

There are better rifles out there, but most are just better tuned.  Learning the way to tune a rifle yourself is something you'll keep with you forever.

Just be careful of BRD.  Once you catch it, it never goes away.

(BRD- Black Rifle Disease)

At one time, I had a single stage competition trigger and did not like it.  Similar to millerized1, I prefer the stock trigger components.  Typically, I use stock trigger components (after I diamond hone [hone, not cut] the machine marks out of the ground hammer notch/sear surfaces) with JP Enterprises drop in trigger springs from Brownells.  I have tried a JP Ent. Low Mass Hammer on two different rifles and, for my uses, it made no difference.  Something to note though is that you really need to know what you are doing with tuning any hammer notch/sear surface like maintaing positive sear engagement.  As millerized1 stated, there are special jigs utilized for almost any trigger tuning to maintain the proper sear engagement angles to keep a SAFE trigger while imporving its feel. 

As an aside, to me, one of the best/easiest triggers to learn tuning on is the SKS trigger group.  It can be removed from the firearm as a whole, is easy to work on and you can really see and understand what is going on as you do it. 

Ok normal run of the mill trigger. Out of that advice is one better then another, or is this all made by one company under sub-contracts? Sorry if somebody said this already. I should sleep.


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