Armory, Self Defense, And EDC > The .22 Caliber Rifle: An Essential Homestead Firearm

"Savage Model 187 Series A" .22LR

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ArmedRealtor:
187 Mechanical Update... I searched TubeYou and found a video that explains the basic workings of the 187.it was not there several years ago when I attempted to put the gun back together the first time. After watching the short video and seeing how it looked assembled it only took 15 minutes to put it back together. The real surprise came shortly there after. I was looking at the action of the gun and it reminded me of a 22 that I purchased a couple years ago in a package deal with a muzzleloader.  I went and pulled it out of the gun safe and put the two side-by-side, they were almost identical except the 86 has a much longer barrel.

The older one is a pre WWII Savage Model 86 which has the exact same action (but smoother) as the newer 187. The Model 86 has a metal trigger guard and charging handle while the 187 (which I thought was older than dirt) has a plastic trigger guard and charging handle.

Mechanically the gun is reassembled, now I need suggestions on finishing the stock.

David in MN:
I'm not saying it's best because there are a million ways to refinish a stock but I always strip as gently as possible, rub with #0000 steel wool, and refinish with boiled linseed oil. Tung oil would work as well if you don't like the yellow of BLO but it's spendy.

I did this to my Mosin Nagant and while I irritate the collectors and "historically accurate" types because my rifle is blonde-ish and not caked in the 1940s Soviet red shellac that is total garbage for use my gun actually operates very well.

My bias is for finishes that are oil based and permeate the wood. If not linseed, I'd be happy with a shop made varnish or something like a Danish oil. I like a neutral-ish color to let the grain show but again, that's just my bias. If I really wanted the grain to pop I'd use the Zinsser sanding sealer shellac before an oil coat. When I do wood turning I do rub of sanding sealer, then a coat of varnish, and a final coat of rubbed on polyurethane. I don't like poly on gun stocks because it will flake off under heavy use (like recoil).

That's my opinion and it's worth exactly what you paid for it. If you got 100 woodworkers together I'm confident all would agree that it works but every one of them would have a slightly different "preferred method". Also worth noting that refinish work has a little problem that I run into when I do client work. Are we restoring the piece to the way it looked when it was new, merely cleaning it up because the dents and dings have meaning, or completely redoing everything so it's the most usable piece possible moving forward? There is no wrong answer.

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