Armory, Self Defense, And EDC > Black Powder and Primitive Weapons

Reloading modern revolver metallic cartridges with black powder

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Smurf Hunter:
I've not tried this, but have read a bit.

As I understand it, you charge BP based on volume (fill the case), whereas with smokeless it's based on weight.

This is just my hypothesis, but WRT to primer selection there's not necessarily a pressure risk using a "hotter" primer with a lighter charge - this past year I did a variety of tests using alternative primers in my .357mag GP100.  I used small pistol, small pistol mag, small rifle, all from a few brands.  My motivation wasn't just in the interest of science, rather I simply couldn't get the primers I wanted at the time.

The biggest issue I found was inconsistency in detonation.  The rifle primers were harder to dent, and 1/10 didn't go the first try.  All would fire eventually (upside of a revolver).

Evntually I plan to chronograph some powder puff .38spl loads using these different primers.  My bet is there'll be no change in velocity.

I load full charge 45s for cowboy action shooting, and with a lighter bullet (150) I am pushing the bullet pretty quick. I use 3F in a 45 Colt case, filled about 1/8" to the top, then add one of my home cast Big Lube bullets in 150, 200, or 250gr and crimp tight. Works well, and is very capable of taking a deer if need be. Really nice in a rifle, pretty good in a pistol.

The Sage of Monticello:
Just started pyrodex metallic cartridge loading. After cleaning gun down I rechecked it for cleaning then found heavy caked rusting on ejector rod and spring. Had to completely disassemble my six gun and found brown rust on my internals including leaf spring.

I load 35 grains pyro P under a light crimp 200 grain round nose. Tombstone is my problem I'm not doing a complete disassembly or is it the light crimp? Is this normal? I am in high humidity South East Oklahoma.

You are not thoroughly cleaning the firearm...that is the problem.
The nitrates and other powder components attract moisture and promote oxidation (rust)
I BOIL small arms,with wood grips removed,for 20 - 30 minutes and change out the soup for
fresh water and bring to a boil again...the use hotdog tongs to place the hot gun on a towel
to dry and relube ...replace grips when cool.

  The boil insures you get all of the chemicals,dirt ,and old lube out of the firearm...My method
of cleaning came from a very old book of skills for the independent woodsman...I will see if I
can find a digital copy as even the name escapes me now.

I break mine down and place the metal parts in the dishwasher, the small parts in a mesh bag in the silverware tray.

I take them out while hot and dry as Tombstone directed, then spray with a water displacer like WD40, then lube and assemble.

Be careful when disassembling, the hand spring that is attached to the hammer is very delicate and so is the two finger spring that controls the trigger and lock bolt.  Those are the two most common failures of the SSA design.


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