Armory, Self Defense, And EDC > Bows and Arrows

I'm having a slight malfunction...

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Accipiter.wilt:
So, it has long been a dream of mine to one day become the ultimate archer ::). Dreams no doubt inspired by hopeless fantasies which I blame on Peter Jackson and the Lord of the Rings Trilogy. I began archery as a youngster with a PSE Jr. Archery set a LOOONG time ago. Since I have moved beyond the 20 lb weight (not to mention the indeterminably small draw length) I decided that when I took up the archery craft again my next bow would be traditional rather than a compound bow. That being said I went out and found a suitable bow which met my budget and level of experience (or ineptitude :-\). That being said my current dream draw is a stick-bow 78" long with a 40lb draw weight at 28 inches. (Don't tease me about the draw weight, its a fun bow not a serious hunters gig).

Anywho, I have been taking it out back every morning to get a feel for the bow and have had a problem. My nocks on my arrows keep breaking right after my release. The first few I blamed on old or defective arrows...but after about 10 breaks, 5 of them brand new arrows I began to doubt my thesis. After trying to find a mention of this issue online (without fruition) I have decided to humbly submit my problem to you... Actually I decided to toss it out there and see if it fell on anybody...

The Arrows I am using are Safety Glass 28" with target points on them and rated at 40 lbs.
Thanks guys.
Accipiter

DeltaEchoVictor:
Those arrows are basically kids arrows & they may be rated to 40#, but they aren't made to be shot out of an adult bow.  Also, never shoot plastic vaned arrows out of a traditional bow.  The plastic vanes will interfere with proper arrow flight because they don't give enough when going past the shelf & riser.  You need feather fletching for trad bows.

Do you know what your actual draw length is?  If not, do a search for "measuring draw length for a traditional bow".  Learn how to measure your draw length & then buy suitable length adult arrows for your bow.

All bow weights are measured at 28" (40# @ 28"), but that doesn't mean you only draw the bow to 28" or the length of the arrow.  In fact, if your drawing 28" arrows my guess is you're not drawing to full anchor because the arrows aren't long enough....unless you have extremely short arms.  You should have approximately 1" of arrow left beyond the arrow shelf at full draw. 

Accipiter.wilt:
Ahh, ignorance is bliss. ::) Thanks for the corrections, I was truly lost. However, would my not pulling beyond 28" put undue pressure on the nocks themselves? I guess its time to hit the local archery store and see if they even have feather fletched arrows.

Tactical Badger:
I second DEV's appraisal of your problem.  Fiberglass shafts are really heavy.  This is not a problem in a Youth bow. 

But, a full sized bow is just putting way too much stress on the nocks because that big, heavy 'glass shaft doesn't want to get moving.

Don't sweat the draw weight of your bow.  You really don't need as much poundage as the compund guys like to think you do.

TimSuggs:
BowMaster I'm not, but I had an alignment issue on a bow once with the little crimp on nock "sets" and the previous owner had them about an inch out of square with the arrow rest.  Upon release, the arrow would take this wild ride up and down in a small arc until the fletching stabilized it.  And I broke a lot of nocks off the arrows until it was corrected.

Tim.

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